Fiber Feature: Cashmere

Ahhh, cashmere, coveted by many who live in cold climates - it's easy to understand why. Finer, lighter, softer, and three times more insulating than sheep wool, a cashmere sweater packs the heat with zero bulk and feel-good fibers. Historically, cashmere wool was usually only donned by those who could afford it - known as luxury fibers. Today, we can find cashmere sweaters ranging from over two thousand to twenty-nine dollars. Why? It's important to understand that many fast-fashion brands want to provide a sense of "value". That said, it does come at a cost. 

A goat that provides cashmere fibers grazes on foliage. 
Finnbarr Webster/Getty Images

First, when making apparel, a large portion of your garment cost is based on the quality of raw materials, expertise and quality of labor slash manufacturer, the quantity of goods produced, plus the markup.

Second, it also helps to understand that animal-based fibers are generally more expensive due to the human and natural resources needed to produce and create them. Also, there is a finite number of animals that produce said fibers. Note: Cashmere and wool are luxury fibers - they are more expensive for a reason. 

So where does cashmere come from? It comes from the Changthangi or Pashmina goat found in the Kashmir region of the Himalayas (Wikipedia), including Tibet, China, Myanmar, Bhutan, Nepal, Ladakh, and Baltistan.

As with any native creature of that region, the goat has adapted itself with a very thick coat that is layered based on insulation and climate protection needs - the base of the coat, closest to the skin, is very fine and soft - this is where the cashmere fiber comes. As you move outward along the coat, the hair changes and becomes wirey and thick to help repel climate conditions such as snow, sleet, and rain. The beauty of wools in general are the natural inherent weather qualities - they deflect water, are easier to remove stains due to oils in the fibers, and dry quickly and keep us warm! 

The lengthiest cashmere hairs are the most expensive as they form the finest yarn.  When the yarn is of high quality, the garment maintains its structure, holds up over time, and does not pill as easily (common in garments using shorter strands). If you've ever scored a high-quality cashmere sweater - you've noticed this!

In my 25+ career in apparel design and development, I learned that some regions have expertise in making and manufacturing garment types. Sweaters, for example, are made in a different facility than a woven button-down shirt - think machinery and expertise. Scotland and Italy dominate luxury sweater brands. Why? Because both countries have a deep history of expertise in knitting and strong ties to wool sources. Labor in these a regions is also more costly. As a result of globalization - China has also started to dive deep into this - but it has come at a cost. 

So how do mass-produced brands make cashmere sweaters for less than $50?

 1) They will mix both long and short hair yarns, often blending cashmere with other fibers to create a "blend" and market it as cashmere. Read your labels - by law manufacturers must include the yarn percentages in it.

2) They use low-quality hair and low weight aka: single ply yarns are weak. 

3) They produce large quantities, reducing production costs.

4) Low labor costs or cut and make.

 A high-quality cashmere garment is costly as it should be. These garments will not can last for years if cared for properly. I hand-wash and squeeze out water with a towel or I dry clean prior to storage. Don't want moths? Clean clothes before storing. 

When out thrifting or buying secondhand, it helps to become educated on the quality of the sweater and the brands that make the finest cashmere garments. Some of the best cashmere and wool knit brands to find secondhand include:

Loro Piana (Italy)

Brunello Cuccinelli (Italy)

TSE

Pringle of Scotland

Eileen Fisher

While you may not find these brands on your hunts - you'll still find some aces. Look for two-ply cashmere or higher - a type of cashmere yarn that's made by twisting two or threads of cashmere together creating a stronger yarn. 

Note: More ply's do not necessarily mean higher quality if they are blending fibers - READ your labels. 

We love a good Cashmere sweater and hope that you can use this article to be a wiser and more empowered consumer whether you are in our store or at the thrift. In general sweaters are one category that I think should never be bought new as a result of the abundance of high quality sweaters found second hand. 

Happy hunting and reach out with comments or questions. 

Bio:

Sandra Rossi owns We Thieves, a Boston-based vintage store featuring hand-picked vintage. A brand, product, and retail veteran of the action-sport and outdoor lifestyle industry with brands such as The North Face, Salomon Sports, and Nike, she worked extensively with natural and technical textiles and developed many products that may sit in your closet today. 

Goat image courtesy of Jahir Martinez